Re: Bob's Bits.
THE CUCKOO WAY - KIVETON PARK STATION TO CHESTERFIELD.
It had been two years since I walked the Cuckoo Way from West Stockwith to Kiveton Park Station.
I had read somewhere that the last section from Kiveton to Chesterfield was overgrown and undefined, so left it at that. During a recent spell of fine weather, I decided to walk the section from Worksop to Kiveton, which I remembered as being the most scenic. I enjoyed it so much, that I would complete the final section all the way to Chesterfield.
After driving to Worksop, parking the car, and purchasing the appropriate provisions for lunch later, I boarded a number 19 bus that would take me as close as possible to the start at South Anston. The driver decided that; at 9:25 it was five minutes too early to use my concessionary pass, so it cost me three quid.
He dropped me off half an hour later in South Anston, and I jogged and walked the mile or so of road down to the station at Kiveton Park, and the start of the walk at Dog Kennel Bridge. It’s still a proper canal here with a kissing gate and a finger post directing me on to the ‘Cuckoo Way’ The sun was shining with fluffy white clouds gently pushed along by an icy cold breeze, and although it looked tranquil, it was not warm enough to stand and stare for too long. So I shuffled off along the canal bank, passing the occasional fisherman with the odd good morning. It’s not long before the canal runs out, and you are faced with a stark brick wall blocking the way: This is the entrance to Norwood Tunnel, sealed up now after it collapsed back in 1907 and was never reopened. It was 2880 yards long, so for the next couple of miles I take a track overland and through the old workings of Kiveton Park Colliery, closed in 1995 and turned into a nature reserve. Because so many people use the park, paths are abundant, and it becomes difficult to find the correct one, but after a few navigational errors, I manage to exit the park at the other side and spot the underpass on the M1 a couple of fields away.
I emerge from the underpass and I’m once again following the canal towpath. Behind me is the sealed up entrance of the Norwood Tunnel, but the canal [although stagnant and full of debris] is again by my side to guide me over the next few miles. The views over the surrounding countryside are spectacular, and because this is a high point of the canal, the remains of a series of staircase locks can clearly be seen as I pass them on my descent. After having to leave the canal as I skirt round some private property, I pop out on to the busy A618 Mansfield Road, I turn right, but after a few hundred yards, realise it’s the wrong way, so I jog back and find a small bridge and a finger post directing me once again on to the Cuckoo Way and by the side of the water filled depression that was the canal. I now find myself walking along a raised bank in a tunnel of bushes, faraway from the noise of the road, the canal has turned into a series of small ponds on my left, and just over a fence and through the bushes on my right is an industrial estate, it seems deserted. Walking out of the sun under the canopy of the trees I begin to feel cold, I grasp the straps of my rucksack and start to jog, after a mile I can feel the warm blood reaching my extremities, a pair of gloves would have been a worthwhile addition to my accessories. The trees and hedges have given way to houses at the edge of a large housing estate, the canal has turned into a dried up bed and is gradually overcome by back gardens from the houses.
I am ejected from the quiet towpath into a street surrounded by houses; This is Killamarsh and maps are no good here. There are new builds that won’t appear on my map, and re-routed footpaths through the maize of streets. I take out the route description and follow the instructions that lead me down numerous ginnels and alleys. Sometimes you can see the remains of the canal, overgrown and mainly used for tipping, and sometimes there is no evidence whatsoever of this once great industrial highway, where barges laden with coal, stone and other minerals would make their way from Derbyshire to the river Trent where it would be loaded on to large ships and sent round the world.
I eventually reach the outskirts of Killamarsh where I am pleased to see the small iron finger sign telling me that I am following the Cuckoo Way and it’s ten miles to Chesterfield. I disappear through a kissing gate and into the bushes to regain the towpath and dried up canal bed. The small overgrown path I have been following runs alongside a much wider and well used track, this is the Trans Pennine Route that joins Hull on the the East coast, to Liverpool on the West coast , and is used mainly by cyclists and horse riders, with the occasional Runners and Walkers. Every half mile or so there are picnic tables, so I take advantage of the amenities and despatch a Greggs Club Baguette [one I purchased earlier] washed down with a bottle of Buxton water, delicious. I trudge along the long straight cinder track, passed by the occasional cyclist, it seem to go on forever, so I jog a couple of miles. The canal runs to my left and contains water, albeit full of weeds. Once in a while it leaves the cycle route and cuts off through the country, I follow it on the small path that runs along side, this is the true Cuckoo Way. The forestry that has surrounded me for the last few miles now gives way to arable fields, Lapwings circle and dive overhead with their distinctive cry, and the canal has disappeared having been filled and ploughed over. It is while on one of these field side paths that I spot another walker up ahead, a young chap with a small rucksack clamped on to his back. His pace is slow and meandering, so not wanting company, or a reduction in pace I jog past, and keep jogging until I reach the trees in the distance.
I jog into the outskirts of Renishaw and slow to a walk, the clouds that had congregated in the sky for the last five miles had now fragmented, allowing the sun to break through and I was feeling uncomfortably hot, so off came the thin jacket which was unceremoniously stuffed into my rucksack. The canal was once again by my side complete with water and lily pads, however, large new three storey town houses lined up along the far bank, Jaguars and Mercedes adorned each drive, and mown grass descended down to the waters edge; there was a distinct smell of money here, and the canal looked more like a well manicured pond.
The path wandered away from the Trans Pennine Trail again, and I was back in the open countryside following the dried up bed of the canal. I was fast approaching Staveley and caught sight of the jumble of housing estates on the hillside, I could hear a busy road, and a railway line barred my way. I followed the steps over a bridge, straddling the railway line, through an underpass and the noisy road, and noticed there were signs of new construction everywhere. As I rounded the bend, lock gates came into view leading to a large new canal basin. Construction workers with hard hats and brightly coloured hi-vis jackets were stood in groups or leaning on shovels, and a large sign announcing that this was the ‘Chesterfield Canal Restoration Project’ The canal had been restored for the whole five miles to Chesterfield.
The new bit ran out after a mile, but now I was alongside a well established, clean and navigable canal, complete with a tarmac towpath. Joggers, Cyclists and Dog walkers adorned the banks as Staveley gave way to the outskirts of Chesterfield. Still feeling good, I joined the joggers and shuffled on for the next mile until the path ran out and I had to cross a road. The ‘Cuckoo Way’ sign beckoned me to a path leading back down to the canal on the other side of the road, but now the canal was sad and overgrown with empty plastic bottles and algae floating on the top. The path was deserted and overhung with brambles and Elderberry bushes, but there were some satisfying views of the twisted spire of Chesterfield Cathedral, they were satisfying to me because they heralded the end of my seventeen and a half mile trek along the Chesterfield Canal known as the Cuckoo Way.
The Blocked up entrance to Norwood Tunnel.
The view that awaited me when I exited the M1 underpass.
An abandoned section of the canal.
Steppin' out.
Restoration is coming.
some friends who accompanied me for a while.
The disappointing bit in Chesterfield.
The end is in sight.
The canal ends and joins the river.