Re: Over 50's Club Scotland (part 3)
Ah now here's a challenge for sure. For all us sassanaks where does the true Scottish Highlands start - only sassanaks live in the lowlands I've been told!!
After Bute we were disappointed with Loch Ness – didn’t see any ripples on the Loch and the place was so packed out that we managed to get the last chalet in the town. We asked the hotelier where was Aultbea – he explained keep going north and stick to the east coast and you can’t miss it. We had friends staying there but no address or phone – that was the challenge. We discovered that Aultbea had been a secret submarine base during the war for the subs to refuel un-noticed. Aultbea and its surrounding countryside was a place of vivid contrasts. We discovered our friends by asking at the local store and they said “oh yes they live at the last cottage but one further down”!
There was a majesty of Aultbea and a dullness too. The small housing estate looked like something out of “The Bill” scenario – dull pebbled walls and unkempt front gardens [perhaps a throwback to workers for the submarine bases?], but the surrounding natural countryside was majestic.
One of our friends was a Scot and wanted to build a modern crofter on a piece of hillside they had purchased. He was having great difficulties getting planning permission. If he had had purchased with a derelict crofter in situ no problems – renovate and be damned but building from scratch – no way.
I believe there are only three hotels/pubs in Aultbea and we chose one and went for the ala carte menu instead of bar menu. We were placed in a large dining room with a bay window looking out to sea and we were the only foursome there all evening. It was quite magical and quite expensive too!
They took us next day to a local fair and country house selling plants. I think we had seen the poor and rich side of Aultbea. Across the street from their rented home was a pebbled beach and small dinghies beached on the shores of Loch Ewe I guess, but there are 12 other Lochs around those parts I discovered. So we had spent two evenings and two days and then had to start heading south again for our family gathering in a week time in Cheshire. I’m not sure if there would have been anything else to do in Aultbea anyway but our guests were genuinely sorry to see us go and begged us to stay a few more days.
Plockton and the Isle of Skye here we came!