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spitfire
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19-01-2021, 11:57 AM
1

Another one for Judd

When I did the kitchen, I had a derr brain moment and placed the built-in Gas Cooker right next to the Hob, and ever since have only been able to use the two right hand gas rings on the hob because of the heat transfer from the two left ones. Next week I intend to fit a Double Electric Oven, moving the housing unit elsewhere in the kitchen. When fitting the Gas Oven, I left in place the 32 amp supply which was sited there originally which now only powers the display on the Oven and the Ignition on the hob, the new Consumer Unit reflects this with a 32 amp RCD. The question is, can I now mount a suitably sized junction box to this supply then extend the Cooker Cable to its new position?
I must have pre-empted this move because the tiling was done before the units were fitted so, either side of the housing unit is perfectly level, and I have spare tiles which will fit the gap perfectly.
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Judd
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West Riding of Yorkshire
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19-01-2021, 01:41 PM
2

Re: Another one for Judd

There's nothing to stop you leaving your existing cooker panel in situ and running a 6*mm twin & earth tail from there to your new oven, this will negate the need for a junction box. As long as the switch is within a two-three metre reach of the oven (so that you can switch it off quickly in case of emergency), there should be no problem.
spitfire
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19-01-2021, 04:30 PM
3

Re: Another one for Judd

Ok, thanks Judd, knowing me I am going to guess I probably removed the original oven switch, and fed the 32 amp supply into fused spurs (with 3 or 5 amp Fuses) to allow the power to the cooker control panel and hob ignition to be switched off.
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Judd
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West Riding of Yorkshire
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19-01-2021, 04:38 PM
4

Re: Another one for Judd

If that's the case, replace the fused spurs with a cooker panel or 45amp double-pole switch but located where you can get at it easily, then continue as before with the extended cooker tail.
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19-01-2021, 08:14 PM
5

Re: Another one for Judd

Are you charging for these sessions yet Judd?!
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Judd
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19-01-2021, 10:46 PM
6

Re: Another one for Judd

Originally Posted by Rhian ->
Are you charging for these sessions yet Judd?!
Nah... I need summat to do in me spare time.
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07-02-2021, 11:18 AM
7

Re: Another one for Judd

Judd, change of plan, to get more space in the Kitchen, I am going to fit a built under Electric Oven, beneath the Hob. Do you remember you gave me advise when fitting the new Cooker at the MILs, it was established because of the Amperage, a normal 13amp plug was fitted, well, the MILs Bungalow is now up for sale, and the Cooker she purchased was an expensive Neff one, and sort of predicting events, asked the Wife if I would remove it and use it ourselves, in the event of the property going on the market. In light of this, I have bought a very nice Hotpot Oven, which will be fitted at the Bungalow, then I will fit the Neff here, the 13amp socket connected to the dedicated Cooker supply, if you wait long enough, a problem will resolve itself.
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07-02-2021, 08:29 PM
8

Re: Another one for Judd

Originally Posted by spitfire ->
Judd, change of plan, to get more space in the Kitchen, I am going to fit a built under Electric Oven, beneath the Hob. Do you remember you gave me advise when fitting the new Cooker at the MILs, it was established because of the Amperage, a normal 13amp plug was fitted, well, the MILs Bungalow is now up for sale, and the Cooker she purchased was an expensive Neff one, and sort of predicting events, asked the Wife if I would remove it and use it ourselves, in the event of the property going on the market. In light of this, I have bought a very nice Hotpot Oven, which will be fitted at the Bungalow, then I will fit the Neff here, the 13amp socket connected to the dedicated Cooker supply, if you wait long enough, a problem will resolve itself.
I presume you mean a Hotpoint oven. You are correct, a slot-under oven provided that it doesn't exceed 3kW can be plugged in to a normal socket. Check the wattage because some of the newer ones are 4kW. If your hob is electric, I'd be putting a cooker panel inside an adjacent cupboard and then wire the hob into the panel - a 4mm heatproof flex should be sufficient if the electric hob isn't pre-flexed. The socket on the cooker panel can then be used to plug in the oven.
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14-02-2021, 01:31 PM
9

Re: Another one for Judd

Right Judd, here is the nitty gritty, the Gas Cooker is out and the built under single oven Electric Cooker positioned but not plugged in yet. When I removed the offending tower unit which contained the Gas Cooker, I found the 13amp socket that powered the oven programmer was right in the way of where the new tiling was going to go so, needed to be lowered below worktop level, this involved (to be doubly sure), removing the 3amp fuse in the switched spur that controlled the socket, and switching down the Cooker Circuit at the Consumer unit, now, on the wall where the Cooker sits are two double sockets, and two fused switch spurs, the switched spurs being one for the afore mentioned socket, and one for the socket that powers the ignitor on the gas hob, both had 3 amp fuses in them, when the power was off, as well as being no power on the spurs, there was no power on the two double sockets either, meaning when the Cooker is plugged in, as a spur, the load will be the Cooker (2600W), two double sockets and the spur for the hob ignitor (3amp), is that Ok? Also, the second of the fuse spur switches, will become the isolator for the Cooker, obviously I will fit a 13amp fuse to replace the 3amp, is that acceptable?
As mentioned before, this spur is protected by a 32amp RCD.
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14-02-2021, 04:08 PM
10

Re: Another one for Judd

Can I assume that both twin sockets are connected to a ring main? If that's the case your switched fused spurs can be wired from either of them. If only one socket is on the ring and the other spurred off, you can't wire anything else to the spurred socket, you will have to wire everything from the socket on the ring.

How do the cables feed the sockets, from down below going up, or up and going down?
 
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