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We were told that as we have micro bore pipes a combi boiler pressure could split the pipes or joints
Anything is possible with running a modern boiler on an old system. Micro bore was the 'cheap' alternative to installing a central heating system as the price of Copper piping was so high. It is still installed today, albeit on a lesser scale than before. You are more likely to encounter problems with sludge / lack of circulation in a micro-bore system. Also, if you have old radiators, it could be possible that they wouldn't be compatible with a modern combi. As for splitting the pipes, that is dubious. Modern combi's normally operate between 1 to 1 1/2 bar. However, the maximum operating pressure before the pressure relief valve kicks in is 3 bar. Older system boiler do not work on these pressures. Soldered joints on any central heating systems (if installed correctly) should be able to withstand the modern pressures.
the boiler they installed was a Glow-worm 24hx model condensing version if tfhat means anything
RE en-suite
I bow to your greater knowledge as I don't have a clue. Just as a bye the bye when they took off all the old wall tiles (tiles on top of tiles double thickness) and ripped out the French all singing and dancing shower unit they found the original pipes in the wall, obviously disconnected as the French unit was fed from above. most parts didn't work either because the French pipe threads are different to ours
Again the previous owner went to France and bought it back without checking first if it would connect up ok
@ Caricature. It would help if we knew the make, model and age of your boiler to estimate its efficiency.
@ Galty Modern range boilers (open vented) such as the Vaillant ECO-TECH run at 89.2 % efficiency.
The Viesman Vitodens can achieve 97% efficiency through its stainless steel HX
The Worcester Greenstar is 92% efficient.
Your efficiency rating must be based on old boilers
Have a look here : https://www.thegreenage.co.uk/should...-with-a-combi/
Hi Steve,hope all is well,its a Gloworm ultracom 24hxi,just checked print out again,98% net,89% gross.
Anything is possible with running a modern boiler on an old system. Micro bore was the 'cheap' alternative to installing a central heating system as the price of Copper piping was so high. It is still installed today, albeit on a lesser scale than before. You are more likely to encounter problems with sludge / lack of circulation in a micro-bore system. Also, if you have old radiators, it could be possible that they wouldn't be compatible with a modern combi. As for splitting the pipes, that is dubious. Modern combi's normally operate between 1 to 1 1/2 bar. However, the maximum operating pressure before the pressure relief valve kicks in is 3 bar. Older system boiler do not work on these pressures. Soldered joints on any central heating systems (if installed correctly) should be able to withstand the modern pressures.
Talking of boilers,any one have a Hive or nest controller and thermostat installed?
Yes, we recently invested in Hive. Quite a reasonable price from Amazon and included thermostat, receiver and hub.
Our old controls included a room thermostat with which we could adjust the temperature, but the on/off times had to be adjusted on the boiler which is out in the garage - an inconvenient trek out the front down the garden path and back up the drive which was not very nice in the cold winter weather!
All can now be done from the Hive thermostat, or our mobile phones anywhere with an internet connection.
Anything is possible with running a modern boiler on an old system. Micro bore was the 'cheap' alternative to installing a central heating system as the price of Copper piping was so high. It is still installed today, albeit on a lesser scale than before. You are more likely to encounter problems with sludge / lack of circulation in a micro-bore system. Also, if you have old radiators, it could be possible that they wouldn't be compatible with a modern combi. As for splitting the pipes, that is dubious. Modern combi's normally operate between 1 to 1 1/2 bar. However, the maximum operating pressure before the pressure relief valve kicks in is 3 bar. Older system boiler do not work on these pressures. Soldered joints on any central heating systems (if installed correctly) should be able to withstand the modern pressures.
Yikes.... microbre. I always refused to touch it. It was so fragile and the manifold was always somewhere where you couldn't get to it.
Keep a close eye on the pressure. If it is dropping, the leak will be from the pressurised side and can be topped up until the gas safe fitter arrives. How to add water should be detailed in the boiler instruction manual.
Good call and let's hope that it is just from the condense pipe.
@realspeed the boiler they installed was a Glow-worm 24hx model condensing version if tfhat means anything
Nothing wring with that boiler RS, as long as you have an annual service, it should be fine. The efficiency is about 88.2 % A point to remember about the boilers condense pipework. Ideally, it should be run and terminate indoors if possible (into the sink waste etc) if it does run outside, make sure that it is insulated well. A frozen condense pipe could(and normally does) prevent your boiler from working.
Yes, we recently invested in Hive. Quite a reasonable price from Amazon and included thermostat, receiver and hub.
Our old controls included a room thermostat with which we could adjust the temperature, but the on/off times had to be adjusted on the boiler which is out in the garage - an inconvenient trek out the front down the garden path and back up the drive which was not very nice in the cold winter weather!
All can now be done from the Hive thermostat, or our mobile phones anywhere with an internet connection.
A Hive control is very good, as are some of the competitors. At least you don't have to go outside to adjust the heating now JBR
When we moved in 5 years ago we had a new boiler fitted. More recently 2 radiators out and replaced with heated towel rails. so now 11 rads and 2 rails. As the towel rails are on the central heating system presumably the whole was flused at the same time . Not keen on microbore but it is what was installed when the house was built in the mid 1980's when microbore was "fashionable"
That amount of radiators and towel rails is pushing your boiler to its limit. I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't running flat out all of the time. A 30kw boiler would have been better.