Re: Another one for Judd
There's nothing to stop you leaving your existing cooker panel in situ and running a 6*mm twin & earth tail from there to your new oven, this will negate the need for a junction box. As long as the switch is within a two-three metre reach of the oven (so that you can switch it off quickly in case of emergency), there should be no problem.Re: Another one for Judd
Judd, change of plan, to get more space in the Kitchen, I am going to fit a built under Electric Oven, beneath the Hob. Do you remember you gave me advise when fitting the new Cooker at the MILs, it was established because of the Amperage, a normal 13amp plug was fitted, well, the MILs Bungalow is now up for sale, and the Cooker she purchased was an expensive Neff one, and sort of predicting events, asked the Wife if I would remove it and use it ourselves, in the event of the property going on the market. In light of this, I have bought a very nice Hotpot Oven, which will be fitted at the Bungalow, then I will fit the Neff here, the 13amp socket connected to the dedicated Cooker supply, if you wait long enough, a problem will resolve itself.Re: Another one for Judd
Re: Another one for Judd
Right Judd, here is the nitty gritty, the Gas Cooker is out and the built under single oven Electric Cooker positioned but not plugged in yet. When I removed the offending tower unit which contained the Gas Cooker, I found the 13amp socket that powered the oven programmer was right in the way of where the new tiling was going to go so, needed to be lowered below worktop level, this involved (to be doubly sure), removing the 3amp fuse in the switched spur that controlled the socket, and switching down the Cooker Circuit at the Consumer unit, now, on the wall where the Cooker sits are two double sockets, and two fused switch spurs, the switched spurs being one for the afore mentioned socket, and one for the socket that powers the ignitor on the gas hob, both had 3 amp fuses in them, when the power was off, as well as being no power on the spurs, there was no power on the two double sockets either, meaning when the Cooker is plugged in, as a spur, the load will be the Cooker (2600W), two double sockets and the spur for the hob ignitor (3amp), is that Ok? Also, the second of the fuse spur switches, will become the isolator for the Cooker, obviously I will fit a 13amp fuse to replace the 3amp, is that acceptable?Re: Another one for Judd
Can I assume that both twin sockets are connected to a ring main? If that's the case your switched fused spurs can be wired from either of them. If only one socket is on the ring and the other spurred off, you can't wire anything else to the spurred socket, you will have to wire everything from the socket on the ring.
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